walk a mile in my shoes...

So I never really put as much thought into shoes as I've done while in Japan. Don't get me wrong, I do love the shoe department at Macy's, but after getting them home and finding the perfect outfit, I don't put much more thought into their existence...much less sheer terror and confusion. The first night in Japan, we went to a restaurant where you had to remove your shoes (see blog post) and of course I screwed up. And then the next day, being so mindful to not screw up, I did just that. The American in me cannot let go of keeping my shoes on at all facilities and when I do remove my flip-flops (my shoe of choice when the temp goes above 75 degrees), I'm not sure if going barefoot is proper etiquette either. My grandmother, Mrs. No White Shoes After Labor Day, would be in tizzy about all this for sure. When we visited the schools in Kamisu, we had to remove our shoes, place them in bins and then put on our slippers. And there are rules for proper removal that I won't get into...mainly because I'm not quite sure about them myself. I "accidently on purpose" forgot my slippers only to find that the school provides back up pairs just for those guests who came without. How sweet! This is a pic of my school-issued brown slippers and Stacy's fancy purple fuzzy ones. It's hard to take anyone seriously while wearing these slippers, but it does provide for a good laugh!
School children remove their shoes, place them in storage bins, change into their "school shoes" (everyone has the same pair), only to change into "toilet shoes" to use in the bathroom, PE shoes for gym class...the list goes on and on. I wonder if they have a "Proper Shoe Etiquette" Class on the 1st day of school because I would sure fail.
At the host family's house, I had to remove my shoes to enter the house, slide into the slippers, remove them if I went to the tatami mat floor room, slide into toilet slippers to go to the toilet, remove slippers to enter the "bath" room.....I just couldn't keep it all straight!!!! The hotel even provided slippers in my room, but I never ventured out to wear them, mainly because no one was around to notice.

“It’s a long way from Iuka, Mississippi, to the big stage I’m singing on tonight...

Think you can "kara" a tune, "oke"? The first part of the word,"kara", comes from the word "karappo" meaning empty or void. The second half of the word,"oke",comes from the word "okesutura," from the English word orchestra. Our last day as a group was, of course, heralded with a bit of karaoke! (pronounced the Japanese way: “kah-rah-oh-kay”…not “carry-oh-key” like we pronounce it…but who cares, right?). We left Akasaka Prince hotel after the Sayonara buffet (all 14+ of us) to find a perfect place to sing our little hearts out…and that we did! We had a big room equipped with two microphones to share in our own little private karaoke paradise. The room even had a phone that you can call for more drinks (or food). So…I ventured to Japan with only one desire…to sing my signature “Tiny Dancer” karaoke style. Sadly, though, there was no "Tiny Dancer" on the playlist at any of the karaoke bars I visited in Japan (this was my 4th time at karaoke and I love it!). My substitute for “Tiny Dancer” was Carrie Underwood’s “Before He Cheats” which I do an outstanding job at, I might add. This place didn’t have “Tiny Dancer” nor “Before He Cheats”, so I was a little bummed until I found Faith Hill’s “Mississippi Girl” to sing as my last song of the night and the last song of the trip before returning to Mississippi. Lori and I left a little early to get some sleep, but not before a photo session at the top of the hotel.

Sayonara makes me want to say "Hasta La Vista" Baby...

Wednesday was our last full day in Tokyo before the mass group departure. All of the groups did a presentation about their time in their 10 respective cities. Some groups were really creative and some even brought a tear to my eye as I couldn't believe what an incredible experience this has been. Our time here has been really amazing and the hospitality shown by the Japan government would make any Southern woman proud (I do declare, Troi!). My group, Kamisu, did a presentation put together at the last minute on the bus ride back to Tokyo on Monday. Some groups really put alot of time and practice into their presentations, but the Kamisu group favored sake in Club Troi's room more than choreographing show tunes, so we just gave the nuts and bolts of our trip, courtesy of a Dave Letterman style "Top 10 Things we learned in Kamisu City". I think we did a great job and even Dr. Satterwhite (the director) commented on our presentation several times that day. It was interesting to see the similarties and differences in everyone's experiences. Two groups visited cities that had just been hit by earthquakes the day before they arrived which further showed the hospitality shown by these people, even during disasters. Wednesday night was the Sayonara Buffet. It was very similar to the Welcome reception dinner that we had at the beginning of the trip with cocktails and an endless buffet. There were a few speeches, some videos from the groups, a martial arts demonstration called aikido and then group pictures at the end. Our tour guide, Laura (actually her name was Kumiko but she told us to call her Laura), came as did the group coordinator from Kamisu City, so we got to say goodbye to them and show our thanks and appreciation. The Japanese Fulbrighters presented money collected for the victims of Hurricane Katrina which was accepted by Betsy from our group who is from New Orleans. Betsy then asked us to reciprocate such a gracious donation by taking up money for the earthquake victims of Japan which further demonstrated what can be accomplished when 2 countries work together. At the end of the evening, we all sang Auld Lang Syne, which is usually sung at graduations in Japan. The evening was kind of bittersweet though I think that we were all ready to go home. Even so, it's sad leaving new friends and this wonderful country...but not without a "final farewell" karaoke style...

Tokyo Tower...the Eiffel copycat

Tuesday night my personal tour guide, Lori, had to teach some English at work, which left me to fend for myself for the 1st time. I met up with some fellow JFMFers and went to Tokyo Tower via taxi. This was my first time in a taxi in Tokyo (they are really really expensive so we take the subway). Our driver was hilarious and he had a slight resemblance to Elvis. What do you think?
Anyway, so we arrived at the Tower and began a photo shoot that didn't end until we came down from the top. Though I had seen the Tower from afar, this was my first up close and personal view and I really got some good pictures. Tokyo Tower is used as a communications tower and tourist attraction. Built in 1958, it is based on the design of the Eiffel Tower and was built as a symbol of Japan's emergence as a global economic powerhouse. Not sure why they didn't come up with their own design....The Tokyo Tower is 9 meters (30 feet) taller than the Eiffel. We went up to the Main Observatory (155 m or 508 feet) and were able to see a 360 degree view of Tokyo and even saw Mt. Fuji (kind of) through the clouds and smog, off in the distance. You supposedly can only see it from Tokyo 1 out of 5 days though I'm not sure today's faint glimpse counted. There is a Shrine on this floor of the Tower (boasted to be the highest in town, obviously), as it seems there is a shrine for everything in this country. There was even one at the Fish Market yesterday, but I never saw it and was not willing to risk my life to find it. Anyway, we braved the next set of elevators and went up to the "Special Observatory" which is 250 meters or 820 feet tall (just a little taller than the highest point in MS & Iuka, Woodall Mountain). This level also offers a 360 degree view through an enclosed circular observatory and the walls are made almost entirely of glass. Having had enough of "sightseeing" we got back in a taxi and went to Asakusa (yes, this was my 3rd visit) and had dinner in the same area. It was a restaurant without a menu (or maybe just not one in English) so we had to use our pointer fingers to show the waiter what we wanted. This is Mary ordering (pointing) her meal. Good thing beer is the same in any language!

Something fishy at sunrise...

I'm not exactly sure who had the bright idea to get up at 4:45am to visit the Tsukiji Fish Market, but I'm glad we sacrificed a little sleep (and our lives) to visit such a Tokyo landmark. Tokyo's normally lively streets and train stations were quiet and the smell of fish was evident immediately after we exited the train at the Fish Market stop...we knew we were in the right place. Arriving at the largest fish market in the world, it was nothing less than controlled chaos. If you're not careful you could end your life here, crushed under a tuna or a man wheeling a cart or driving a fork lift full of human-sized tuna. We really needed eyes in the back of our heads for this trip because I saw my life flash before my eyes several times. We saw the auction from the opening in the airplane hangar like building, filled with fat silver and black skinned tuna so big I think I could fit inside one. Lori commented that she didn't know tuna existed outside of the Chicken of the Sea can...I too was amazed at the size of these fish!! Tourists are no longer welcome at the tuna auctions as the camera-toting curiosity seeking foreigners (gaijin) were getting in the way of business and we too, felt like we were in the way the entire time. We had planned to eat sushi at one of the stalls surrounding the market after our visit, but after smelling the fish and sloshing around in fish gravy (FYI: flip flops are not a good idea) we decided to go back to the hotel and clean off instead.

food for thought...

One common theme on this trip (besides shopping and shrines) has been that our similarities far outweigh our differences. But as more than 70% of Americans do not possess a passport, are we "tuning out the world"? I encourage you to travel and learn more about humankind and yourself in the process...it really will open your eyes! Click here to read more: http://yaleglobal.yale.edu/display.article?id=6553
And check out this video that Laura from my group just sent me....it feels like the world comes together in this video:
Where the Hell is Matt? (2008) from Matthew Harding on Vimeo.

maid in Tokyo

The ryokan visit was the most awesome experience, especially after a rigorous schedule for the past 17 days! I felt like I really had a chance to relax and really get to know my group members. We boarded the bus early to return to Tokyo, but not after a little shopping and shrine visiting...which seems to be the theme for the trip! We arrived in Tokyo at 11:30 and luckily our luggage and rooms were all ready for us. The Japanese really know about customer service...we were assigned the same rooms we had the last time we were in Tokyo, so it felt like coming home in a sense. When I opened the door to my room, the maid had left me a note along with my camera's battery charger I had searched for high and low....I was so excited that I wouldn't have to spend all afternoon at electronics stores trying to find a Sony battery charger that seemed to be easy enough, but wasn't. Speaking of maids, Lori met me at the hotel (her wonderful boss let her off for the day so we could venture out one last time) and we did some last minute shopping and then went to Akihabara which is the electronics & technology district. While there, we visited a "maid cafe" which is becoming a popular industry in Japan, especially in Akihabara, where many "game geeks" hang out. Read this article for more--it's crazy!!! http://uniorb.com/ATREND/Japanwatch/maidcafe.htm

We walked in, a little nervous about what to expect (it's usually only guys who go to these places but we wanted to see for ourselves and thought that our "foreign-ness" would forgive any faux pas). We sat down and our maid washed our hands with a warm towel and then introduced herself as "I'm bunny" as she had bunny ears on and of course a maid costume. $5000 yen later, we had eaten cheesecake, played Crocodile Dentist with "I'm bunny" (I got to wear bunny ears because I lost) and even had a Polaroid picture taken with her as a souvenir. The people (all guys) in the cafe were engaged in a lively discussion with the maid-suited girls behind the counter, who seemed genuinely, deeply interested in them. These guys come in and basically pay for companionship. Through absolutely no effort on their part, they can be assured that a pretty woman will focus her attention exclusively on them for as long as they keep paying money. During the trip, we had heard more and more how teenagers are becoming socially inept due to rigorous studying and video game playing, among others and it seems that a maid cafe provides them with a little human interaction...but it still seems strange to me! It was a true Japanese experience!!

the art of bathing

This is us sporting the yukatas while enjoying a hot springs foot soak in the lobby of the ryokan...

One would think that having lived in a house full of girls, a college dorm, and a sorority house would have prepared me for the day when all modesty would be lost. The bus ride to the ryokan was one of dread and panic...who would have thought bathing would be met with such sheer terror by us Americans? Bathing is an art form in Japan, and this total "immersion" cultural experience in Japan was about to include an "immersion" in a hot springs bath at a ryokan with 10 of our best naked friends. A ryokan embodies the very essence of Japan and is surely the accommodation of choice if you wish to personally experience the uniqueness of Japan - the architecture, lifestyle, nature, traditions and culture. Staying at a Japanese ryokan offers a splendid opportunity to familiarize you with the spirit of Japanese hospitality and graceful customs that have been passed down over many generations. You can experience the elements of Japanese culture and customs: staying in a room with tatami (straw mat) flooring, changing into a typical yukata (robe), taking an onsen hot-spring bath, sleeping on a futon (bedding) put down directly on the tatami floor.
We arrived at the ryokan, perched high on the mountain of Tsukuba, one of the most famous mountains in Japan (obviously behind Mt. Fuji). Click here for more info: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mt._Tsukuba My host family kept telling me I was going to "scuba" and having pictured scuba gear and diving...I was a little confused though elated when we pulled up to the gorgeous inn, nestled in the mountain and surrounded by trees and nature. We quickly changed into our yukata for dinner of a lavish feast followed by the dip we had dreaded. The sake flowed like the river below our feet, which just gave us the needed confidence to get in (Stacy dared me to do a cannon ball, but the bath was just too shallow...maybe next time). It was actually a very nice soak, though it took a lot of sake and a lot of "I'll never see these people again" thoughts to get me in there, but I'm glad I did. As loud Americans, we sometimes found it difficult to be "graceful and still" like the Japanese, but I think we accomplished just that on this trip to the ryokan. However, it does take a little grace (and a prayer) to position the towel just right over the "important" parts as you move from the shower to the bath, then quickly move it to your head where it won't get wet...and the scalding hot bath stuns you into the stillness we all needed...

TO MY FAITHFUL READERS: Please bear with me as I get recover from jet lag and try to get caught up on my postings. I will be posting every day for awhile, so please check back often. I will also get my pics up ASAP!